Spain's golf riches reach far beyond the Mediterranean
By David Brice, Golf International Inc
Editor's Note: This is the second in a three part series which explores the reasons why Spain has become Europe's Capital of Golf, this week traveling from Madrid and Central Spain to the Atlantic shoreline of the North Coast. If you missed part 1, covering Spain's Mediterranean Coast, click here.
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Spain's sprawling capital of Madrid has a vibrancy and character that is entirely unique among Spain's many intriguing cities and indeed, all European capitals. Madrilenos have a sense of fun and an exuberance for life that is infectious, yet they remain sophisticated with a deep appreciation for life's finer pleasures, which is reflected in their city. This is Spain's center of the arts, gastronomy, innovation and culture. Madrid is a city of often remarkable and always stimulating contrasts
In a country renowned for its fine gastronomy, the culinary arts reach their pinnacle in the restaurants of Madrid and nowhere on this planet will you ever dine better. This is also a city of museums, many museums. Renowned the world over, The Prado contains a monumental collection of literally thousands of masterpieces from the middle ages to the 19th century, presenting a compelling voyage through the history of art. The nearby, Thyssen-Bornemisza does the same thing, bringing the journey into the 20th century and the Reina Sofia, together with the architecturally stunning, Caixa Forum - Madrid, boast outstanding contemporary art collections -- and this is still only the beginning of Madrid's overwhelming wealth of museums.
Madrid is a city of broad, sweeping avenues and boulevards, interspersed by lush green parks and spectacular fountains, with more green space than any other European capital. But it also has a fascinating and totally contrasting Old Town, surrounding two of its most popular landmarks, the ancient, Plaza Mayor, a majestic 17th century square, containing many fine historic buildings, and the unabashedly opulent, Palacio Real. Wander the narrow cobblestone streets that wind around these two, not to be missed sites and the Madrid of an age long passed will be revealed, together with a dizzying array of small shops and boutiques, churches, designer showrooms and art galleries.
For those in search of nightlife, Madrid is in a league entirely of its own and as if to compensate for a rather late start, the night clubs and tapas bars, the discos and restaurants, all keep sizzling until the wee small hours of the morning, each and every day of the week.
There is more than enough to explore and discover in and around Madrid, to keep even the most ardent sightseer busily occupied, non-stop for days and even weeks, but if you have the urge to break away for a round of golf or two, there are some excellent courses close by to satisfy your yearnings. Like many European capitals, a number of Madrid's surrounding golf clubs are very private, such as the very exclusive, Real Club de la Puerta de Hierro, but there are other excellent layouts in the area that have a permanent welcome mat out for visitors. Avoid the always busy weekends and the golf choices only increase.
Real Sociedad Club de Campo, located just beyond the city limits, boasts two excellent championship layouts, both from the designing mind of the great Robert von Hagge. Play the North Course and you'll be taking on one of Spain's top ten. Nearby, Club Jarama presents an opportunity to experience a masterly layout from Spain's very own, Javier Arana, one of the world's most impressive architects, sadly, little known outside of his home country, where practically all of his work exists.
Drive a little further and you can combine sightseeing with golf at highly regarded, La Herreria Golf Club, spectacularly located in the shadows of the Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, one of Spain's most fascinating, ancient monasteries. It would be worth playing this one for the picture postcard views alone, but this is a world class layout from start to finish with arguably, the best closing hole in all of Spain.
Despite rumors to the contrary, there is a healthy supply of top-drawer layouts situated in and around Madrid, where visitors are welcomed with open arms.
Journeying north of the capital, toward the Atlantic coastline, the route takes you through the largest of Spain's 17 autonymous regions, Castilla y Leon, one of the richest in history, culture, cuisine and perhaps Spain's most sophisticated wines. Wander even a little away from the main motorway, following your inquisitive nature and there are untold treasures, calling out to be discovered.
Entire cities of Castilla y Leon have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the ancient walled city of medieval Avila, astoundingly beautiful Segovia and Salamanca are among Spain's most striking. Squeeze a day or two into exploring even one of these history book cities and you will be rewarded with experiences like never before, with vacation memories to last a lifetime. And if golf is a life or death necessity, impossible to be without, each of these centuries old treasures offers golf, but another type of golf experience.
Their courses may not host international, nor national tournaments, neither may they be ranked among Spain's most technically perfect layouts, but they do provide any visitor with a taste of genuine Spanish hospitality, and the instant camaraderie, known only to golfers. At best, this special and very personal experience, is seldom found at the world's so called trophy courses, but here, at Spain's smaller golf clubs, it thrives. These are the real gems of Spanish golf.
If time simply does not allow a minor diversion to discover more of Castilla y Leon, the drive to the north coast, literally takes you through another great city of the region, Burgos, which shouldn't be missed. Glowing centerpiece of the city's historic Old Town is the much lauded, Burgos Cathedral, honored as one of the most magnificent in all of Europe and the final resting place of one of Spain's greatest heroes, El Cid.
Only enriching Burgos's enthralling historic attractions, is an exceptional golf course sitting a brief, 20 minute drive south, near the small town of the same name. Lerma Golf Club is Castilla y Leon's flagship layout, ranked among Spain's top 20. This is a sparkler of a challenge, tough enough to push the best to the extreme and a strategist's delight. But don't miss the club's restaurant where the best of Castilla y Leon's delectable cuisine is featured in grand style, together with an extensive wine-list, focused on the noblest wines of the region. Included are some truly magnificent Ribera del Duero wines, for which Castilla y Leon is so justly famous. Plan on a few hours to do justice to a real Castilla y Leon lunch and you'll savor every moment.
Leaving Castilla y Leon, there maybe a temptation to explore at least a corner of tiny Rioja, located immediately next door. Don't resist, there's something absolutely charming about this often forgotten small province, famous for its Rioja wines and filled to overflowing with the Spain of yesteryear. La Rioja's picturesque, centuries old villages and small towns are like taking a step back in time and into a Spain that once was. Life in today's Rioja still moves at an easier pace and the locals seem to have avoided being caught up in the modern day world. And for the eager sightseer, La Rioja offers a wondrous collection of historic old monasteries, churches and other fascinating, religious sites, together with a handful of thoroughly unpretentious and delightful golf courses.
Mountains, fertile farmland and a mild climate, have all helped create the personality of the happy-go-lucky, generous minded, Riojans, assisted by their very special and deliciously rich cuisine. Of course the never-ending supply of Rioja wine doesn't hinder the innately friendly, out-going Riojan character at all.
Continuing north, there's an entirely different Spain waiting on the Atlantic Coast. This is Green Spain, a totally contrasting region to the Mediterranean Coast, more familiar to most Americans. The lush vegetation and Atlantic influenced climate, make Spring and Autumn the most pleasurable times of the year to visit this enchanting region, which extends from The Basque Country, neighboring the French border in the east, all the way west to the remote and wildly beautiful, windswept region of Galicia. Bordered by Portugal to the south and the Atlantic to the west and north, its strong Celtic culture, brings Galicia's immediately recognizable ties to Scotland and Ireland, more apparent than perhaps its true Spanish birthright.
Golf along Spain's Green Coast has its share of trophy courses, some with very close connections to Spain's most famous golf heroes and as with every other corner of the country, a constant emphasis on fine food and wines, history and a rich, colorful, cultural heritage.
San Sebastian, also known as Donostia in the local Basque language, is a chic, lively resort town, sitting just a half hour's drive west of the French resort of Biarritz and 45 minutes east of Green Spain's cultural capital of Bilbao. Founded in the 13th century, San Sebastian first reached fame as Queen Isabel II's favored seaside retreat in the mid 19th century. More recently this delightfully fashionable resort has gained favor for it's distinctive gastronomy and plethora of fine restaurants; it's now famous annual film festival, an intriguing Old Town, and last but not least, as the birthplace and still the home of Jose Maria Olazabal.
Literally born on the grounds of Real Golf Club de San Sebastian, where his father was the greens-keeper, this is where Olazabal learned the game and still plays here frequently. Play this beauty once and you immediately understand where Olazabal gained his unique short-game skills. This is a course that deserves the attention of any visiting golfer and despite its celebrity status, retains a refreshing, down to earth and genuinely friendly welcome for all visitors.
Not to be missed when in San Sebastian is a brilliant piece of handiwork from Jose Maria Olazabal, the golf architect. Golf Balozabal was a modest 9 holer when Jose Maria, eager to give something back to his home town, undertook the design of a further 9 holes. The challenge was that it had to be carved through practically solid, Basque rock. A few years later with the impossible mission accomplished, Golf Balozabal has evolved into a crackerjack track, filled with rugged, Basque grit and toughness, this is a layout guaranteed to provide very special memories.
45 minutes west along the coast brings you to the city of Bilbao, famous as the site of the architecturally stunning, Guggenheim Museum. It remains as remarkable a structure today as when it first opened in 1997, launching a cultural renaissance in this once industrial city. Today Bilbao is a treasure trove of often innovative, architectural attractions, excellent restaurants, Basque charm and on the outskirts of town, Neguri Golf, a wonderful example of the artistry of talented Spanish designer, Javier Arana. Dating from 1911, this is also one of Spain's oldest courses and a traditional delight for golf's connoisseurs.
The pretty coastal drive, further west along the coast to the city of Santander, will take barely an hour and making it more than worthwhile, the outstanding, Real Golf de Pedrena. This is the great Seve Ballesteros' home club, where he was first introduced to the game and still maintains a home, occupying a commanding view over this classic masterpiece from the one and only, Harry S. Colt, golf architect, extraordinaire. But don't miss Pedrena's 9-hole course, created by Santander's favorite native son, Seve himself.
Tucked away in the extreme north-western corner of the country, literally sitting on top of Portugal, the region of Galicia is the Spain of a hundred years ago. Unspoiled by the tourist crowds that flock to the Mediterranean Coast, Galicia ironically introduced tourism to Spain way back in medieval times, when untold thousands of pilgrims walked the Pilgrims Way to the holy shrine of St. James (Spain's patron Saint) at Santiago de Compostela, now the capital of Galicia.
Surprising, may be the fact that Galicia boasts more than 20 golf courses, but learning that the origins of Galicia's population is Celtic, the same as the Scots and Irish, it all begins to make sense. The Spanish guitar and castanets are replaced in these parts by bagpipies -- yes bagpipes -- and the Celtic side of Spain emerges, so why not golf as well? Golf may not be the main reason to visit Galicia, but for those who venture here, there are some very good courses available, in between exploring the historic wonders of the region and dining on the best seafood to be found anywhere.
The capital of Santiago de Compostela competes as one of Spain's most beautiful cities and centuries ago, had joined Rome and Jerusalem as one of the Holy cities of Christendom. Containing an incredible wealth of monuments dating from the 10th century, dominated by the magnificent, Romanesque cathedral, Santiago's entire central city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Slip away from sightseeing for a half day and play the short but testy layout at Club de Santiago, just a few minutes drive from the city center. If you have more time to spare, take your pick between an excellent, Mackenzie Ross designed, mountain course at La Coruna, or drive a similar one hour south of the city and tackle La Toja Golf. This is a spectacular and thoroughly unique seaside layout, located on its own island.
No matter which courses of Spain's entire North Coast, Madrid or Central Spain, are played, visitors quickly learn that Spain has a diversity of quality golf throughout the country, matched by few others. But there is even more as you will learn next week, when we visit Spain's exotic islands where excellent courses thrive. No wonder Spain has earned the title, Europe's Golf Capital.
In the meantime, for more ideas and suggestions on playing the very best of Spain's remarkable golf courses, click here.
©2009 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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